Hadzabe

Although the ultimate place of relaxation, Lake Eyasi is far off the beaten path and is frequently missed by many safari-goers only desiring to return home with pictures of the Big Five.  Those who do venture all the way out here usually come in search of a more cultural experience and are given the amazing opportunity to glimpse into the life of the Hadzabe, one of Africa’s last hunter and gathers.  They contently live day by day, sleeping directly under the stars, killing the food that they need or otherwise eating berries and tubers.  With their 10,000 year old way of live and beautiful click language, they have become a tourist attraction from which they now get paid (although unfortunately most is spent on alcohol, since they have no other need for money, which is causing devastating damage to the tribe…but that’s a story for another day).  Since I am by no means an historian, nor do I intend to pretend to be an expert on this tribe, I’ll simply recount my recent experience. 

The other day I finally went hunting with them, after living here for over three months.  I’ve met a handful of other Hadza through researchers or ones who have left living in the bush and now work for Nani and Chris, but this was my first “touristy” Hadza escapade. 

I woke up around 5am to head off on the back of Sadi’s motorbike (the same guy who bought me the African dress and has recently taken to being my personal guide) on a search for them through the mountains and endless bush.  Since they’re hunters and gatherers they have no houses and tend to move around when the depending on the abundance of food in the area, we weren’t positive where/when/if we would find them, but thankfully Sadi is a pro and we able to find a camp of about 20 of them huddled around a fire preparing for the morning hunt. 

We eventually set out with four young Hadza boys for a hunting “walk”.  And by walk I mean I was nearly at a jog getting stabbed by thorns and caught on trees and so busy watching where I was walking that I couldn’t even see what they were pursuing.  Even standing I barely have the eye to spot some of these small birds and animals.  I was so impressed to see these young Hadza flawlessly negotiate the bush, running through in their tire sandals without taking an eye off their prey.  I have no idea how they do it. 

Within minutes of the hunt one got a little canary, from which he removed his arrow and quickly slung the victim through his belt loop so as not to lose pace.  About an hour later they managed to kill two squirrels, thanks to their dogs trapping them under some rocks.  Satisfied with their hunt for breakfast, we went to rest by a large baobab tree, where they made a fire (using the impressive skill of rubbing a stick of hard wood against a plank of softer wood)  and proceeded to smoke bees out of the hollow tree and extract one of their favorite treats: honey.  It was delicious. 

Satisfied with our sweet appetizer we headed up the mountain a bit to build another fire to cook the food.  Within minutes a little fire was blazing, and they through the bird and two squirrels directly on it- fur/feathers and all.  We all gathered around, and they generously offered me a piece of squirrel.  I felt bad taking what little food they had- 3 tiny animals is nothing split among four hungry boys- but I so desperately wanted to try it.  I convinced myself it would be rude to decline their offer and graciously accepted.  And I have to say, it was pretty good, especially for being cooked right on a fire with no seasonings or anything. 

Happily we all walked (jogged) back to their home, where I spent some time beading with the women.  Apparently Sadi took a nap on the ground by one of the fires since the night before was Georgie’s wedding and he had stayed up way too late. 

After partaking in their traditional dance (touristy but fun nonetheless) I thanked them with my pathetic attempt of speaking Hadzane and we sped off through the mountains and bush, past all of the Tanzanians staring in awe at a white girl on the back of a motorbike, and arrived home in time for lunch. 

I’m really looking forward to another chance to go hunting with them when my parents come for a safari next week, especially since I forgot to charge my camera and only managed a few pictures before it died.